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Articles & Guides Title: The Illusive "Big Sound" in Home Music Production
Author: Ermias Kebede
Article: It is clear that booking studio time and spending hourly fee's to record your music is pretty much a thing of the past. Thanks to technology musicians can, with minimum recording equipment and relatively very little money produce great sounding recordings from the comfort of their bedroom studio's.
However, to make your bedroom studio production sound like it was recorded in a big studio and have that "big sound" is till a tricky endeavor that requires attention. Here are some basic tricks that can help you towards that goal.
If I have to pin point one major area in the production process that is crucial and extremely important in your music sounding big is the recording of the drums. If the drums are not recorded cleanly and featured prominently in the recording the whole song is going to sound weak and small. Short of having stand alone drum sequencers like the MPC series or even live drums, which is the best way to go for your drum recordings, if you are using drum sounds from a keyboard module here is one usual mistake you need to watch for. Avoid dubbing all your separate drum parts on one track.
Since it comes easy to sequence your drum parts on one track, we tend to leave it as is and end up having a weak sound as a result. Just because it sounds good in your studio doesn't mean it going to produce a big sound in the end.
The trick is to give each drum part two separate tracks and record them in stereo. For example when recording the hi-hat, record it on two separate tracks and pan the tracks left and right. The same with all the other parts; the bass drum, snare, toms and cymbals. Now you have ten or more tracks of just the drums, you then adjust the levels accordingly and dub the tracks to the final left and right tracks. This should give you a prominent drum sound on which you can build the rest of your song. The drums are the driving rhythm force of your song, so don't hesitate to give them a good sound level.
Once you have a good sounding drum tracks, here are some simple tricks to give your other instruments instant body and presence. Again the same rule applies here, double or even triple track the same instruments. For example if your song requires a background guitar chord parts, play the same part twice on two different tracks and pan them left and right. Bingo, that's an immediate body and presence for your song. You can use this same trick to guitar licks as well. That illusive "big sound" doesn't have to be that illusive if you use the techniques I described above. Hope this has been helpful and good luck with your recordings. Here is a recording and production site that I think is great: http://www.music.etkglobal.com.
About the author: Ermias Kebede is primarily a musical artist whose music can be sampled at http://www.etkglobal.com. Here is also a great site for your music production and recording needs:
Title: The Potential and Power of Music
Author: Charles M Smith
Article: The dictionary defines Music as "the science or art of combining tones into a composition having structure and continuity:Also as vocal or instrumental sounds having rhythm,melody,or harmony. This is a wonderfully academic definition and be it far from me to question the authority of the dictionary,however this definition describes more the process of producing music than it defines what music actually is. Music is far more than a science it is in fact a creative force a spiritual dimension of life. Music has been apart of the human experience in every culture and society of mankind since time began. From the earliest cultures of man until now music has been used to express a wide range of human emotions from love, joy and celebration to sadness,anger and fear.Music has been used to inspire patriotism,incite wars and promote peace. Music is so much apart of us that we could not imagine a world or an existence that did not include this dimension of life. My point here is not to make a case for any particular genre of music but rather to help us understand that whether we know it or not the reason music is so much apart of us regardless of our age, race ,cultural background, or preferred musical genre and the reason it affects us the way it does is because in essence music is spiritual.
Understand that any thing that has the ability to alter our mood(positively or negatively), give language to feelings we cannot express, or transport us back in time or forward into the future is a spiritual force. Music does all these things on varying levels. When we speak of things being spiritual we are speaking of that which possess the following: potential , purpose and power. Potential
At this point I must inform you that music like many other things in life such as money and even religion has the potential for good as well as evil. If we believe that music is spiritual than it is crucial to understand that there is a good and an evil side to spirituality and spiritual things. For example the same knife that can be used to prepare a wonderful meal can also be used to mortally wound some one. The same wealth that can be used to feed the poor and promote positive change in the world could also be used to fund the trafficking of Illegal drugs or guns. In recent years the positive potential of music has been rediscovered as many mental health and therapy organizations are now including the use of music as a part of there therapy and recovery programs. Yet this is nothing new, in the bible there is a story of a great king named saul who was tormented in his soul and mind by an evil spirit. it was recommended to him that he employ the service of a skillful minstrel(musician). He was made aware of a young man named david who it was said was a cunning(expert,master) musician. David was brought before the king and he became the kings personal attendant. Whenever king Saul would start having one of his tormenting episodes David would play his instrument and the scriptures declare that as david played Saul would be refreshed and made well (read more in I SAMUEL 16). The positive potential of music to change our society and culture cannot be underestimated. Which brings us to the next thing we must understand about music.
The Highest Purpose
Someone has aptly stated: "that when the purpose of something is not known abuse is inevitable" when those who have been uniquely gifted to release the dimension of music into the earth fail to understand the reason for there gift it is possible to unknowingly(and in some cases knowingly) use the musical gift in a way that it becomes a conduit for the release of evil,perversion and negativity into the world. This is where we come to a very important point. music in and of it self is a neutral spiritual force. what do I mean? Its like a glove lying on a table it's just there until someone with the ability to give it form puts his or her hand into it and then it assumes the form of the hand that it contains. In the same way music with all of its potential and possibility simply hoovers in the spiritual atmosphere around us awaiting to be employed by some one who has the musical ability to take it and form it into a song or composition and bring the awareness of it into the earth for the world to hear. When this process takes place the music simply assumes the form of the one forming it. What ever philosophy of life or worldview the gifted musician holds good or bad will inevitably be transmitted into there music and songs. So what is the purpose of music? I do not believe that we can answer this question, until we answer the question of the origin of music. since we know that music is a neutral spiritual dimension, we must then conclude that it has a spiritual origin. in other words, that which is spiritual comes from that which is spiritual. The bible declares in the book of John 4:24 that "God is a spirit" one of the most profound aspects of God's spiritual nature is the creative aspect of his nature, in fact the first thing we learn about God in the bible is that he is the creator of all things,that means that every realm,domain,sphere,atmosphere and dimension was created by God(read Genesis 1 &2). in the book of revelations 4:11 it says "worthy are you our Lord and our God, to receive glory and honor and power; for you have created all things, and because of your will they existed, and were created. All things include the dimension of music with all its potential and power which includes those who have been gifted musically to release the benefit of music into the earth. Herein lies the purpose of music.
Let me say right here that I am not talking about whether your chosen genre is classical, jazz, pop, r&b gospel or contemporary Christian, the issue is one of heart motivation. As a gifted musician,composer,singer what is the heart motivation behind your music. The bible says that that our highest motivation as musician's should be to perform,write and produce music that glorifies God and demonstrates the greatness of his creative spirit in the earth. Might I add that that this does not always mean that the songs or musical compositions have to be in the genre of what is known as gospel or Christian music. If the music was inspired buy Gods creative spirit and the heart motivation of the musician or composer was to inspire and add value and meaning to the life of the hearers in a positive, creative,powerful and beautiful way than this is a good work that glorifies God. This is what we learn when study the life of Great composers of the past such as Bach, Handel, Beethoven and Mozart. These men were master musicians and composers who were aware that there musical genius was a divine gift, but their music was more than just religious, it was inspired by Gods creative spirit within them. I only use the classical genre to make a point not to say that it is better or more meaningful than another genre,however there is reason why the works of these men are still used and referenced in the musical programs of our institutions of higher learning and even today are used as bench marks of Excellence and music mastery.
My point is that music has a purpose and the potential to change the spiritual climate of the earth. And I believe that we are about to see a modern renaissance as the creative spirit of God inspires musically gifted individuals both inside and outside of the church to begin to compose and bring fourth music that will promote change in our societal and cultural landscape.
If you are a musician reading this and in your heart you sense that this is your destiny begin by asking God to change your heart, recognize that your gift was given to you by the God of heaven and earth to be a conduit of his presence and voice to the world. dedicate your life to knowing God in a personal way and dedicate yourself to the craft of your music as a service for humanities good.
About the author: Charles M. Smith is a guitarist, psalmist, worship leader, songwriter, author and full time Minister and. He is the founder of CMS Ministries and Clearzone Music Inc. in addition he serves as the national director of worship for the Liberty International Network of churches.
For more information or to receive our free periodic newletter and E-courses Email us at: cmsministries@aweber.com, you can also visit http://www.cmsministries.org
Title: Want to play guitar like the pros? Part 2 - Scales and Guitar Tuning
Author: David Woodford
Article: Scales are an important part of guitar. They can build speed, and they are also the roots of almost all solos. Just in case you don't know what a scale is--here's a quick review. Scales are playing one note from its octave to the octave above it. They are a good exercise to warm up and practice moving around your guitar.
Before playing any music, even your warm-up, it is important to make sure that your guitar is in tune. How do you do that? Well there are many ways. One method is of course to go out and buy an electric tuner. These aren't always the safest method because background noise will also play an effect to what the electric tuner says. The 2nd method to tune your guitar, which is also the most accurate, is by using a keyboard or piano. To tune the guitar you need to know all six strings for the guitar. The six strings, from highest to lowest (thickest to thinnest) are: E B G D A and E. You would first hit the lowest E on the keyboard, and move the tuner until it had the same pitch as the E. You would then hit the next B, then G, and so on until all your strings are tuned. Another common way to tune your guitar is by knowing the frets. This requires at least 1 string to be in tune. Let's say the 6th string is in tune, and then you would play the 6th string and 5th fret. That is the same exact sound as the 5th string open. So you would tune that to the 6th string open. The 5th fret of the string produces the sound of the string below it in ALL except for the 4th string. To get the sound of the 3rd string you must play the 4th fret of the 4th string.
Now, let's get on to scales. Scales are classified in many ways in guitar. Some are with the notes (A scale). Some are with the fingers (2-4-2 scale), and some also have names. Let's start out with the chromatic scale. This scale is pretty simple. All you do is start in the 6th string, and play the open string, plus the 1st 4 frets on the string, except for the 3rd string. On the 3rd string you play the string open and then the first 3 frets instead of the 4. There are also major and minor scales. Major scales simply mean there is a happy sound, and minor scales usually produce a sad sound. A good exercise for moving up and down the frets is to play a scale that goes from the top string to the bottom string. To do this, you can align your fingers anywhere. Start with your index finger on any fret, and then put a finger for each fret that's next to it. Play your index, skip the middle, play the ring finger, and then skip the fret next to the ring finger and reach with you pinky for the fret besides it. So if you started on the 4th fret, then you would play frets 4, 6, and 8. On the next string, you play the frets that you DIDN'T play on the above string. So back to the example, when moving down to the 5th string, you would play frets 5 and 7.
When you move down to the 4th string, you play the same frets as you did on the 6th string. Then for the 3rd and 2nd string, you play the same exact frets as you did on the 5th. For the 1st string, you play the same frets as the 6th. So, the 6th, 4th, and 1st strings all play the same frets (every other fret). The 5th, 3rd, and 2nd strings also play the same frets (the frets in between that are not played in the other strings).
Scales will be vital as you learn more about music. They can help you start a solo; they can also help a composer choose which notes he wants as part of his piece. Not only that, but even if you don't want to compose, scales WILL make you a better guitar player.
About the author:
David Woodford is a professional writer who specialises in beginners guides for a variety of subjects. He is currently writing this series of guides on learning to play guitar for novices and 'false beginners'. Some great help can be found on his site at: click">http://www.info4u-services.com/guitar http://www.info4u-services.com/guitar Title: Want to play guitar like the pros? Part 3 - Guitar Speed-Building and Strength-Building Exercises
Author: David Woodford
Article: As you probably already know, playing the guitar requires time, practice, and passion. Just as in anything else in life, you can't get better unless you practice. The rule sticks in guitar; you must practice to get better. To play guitar, you also must have good hand strength. That can be done by doing guitar exercising and practicing a lot. Here I have written some simple exercises which will build speed and strength.
I'm going to start out with speed exercises. The simplest speed exercise is to play a scale, or cycling patters. There are scales in the other lessons online, and it isn't hard to make your own scale. A good way to increase speed with scales if by playing the note 2 or 3 times while playing the scale. So if you're playing a chromatic scale, you play each note twice and then move on to the next note. As you get better, go faster and add more notes, at the end you will have improved a lot from where you began.
An important exercise I used for strength building is hammer-on pull-offs. I start out at the 1st string 1st fret and hammer on to the 2nd, then pull off to the first. I keep on moving up until I reach the 6th string. After I reach the 6th string I move over a fret, and then go back down to 1. I repeat the process until my fingers get tired. While doing this it is best to use a pair of fingers, then start over and change fingers. Not only does this build on your hand strength, but this will also help your coordination for hammer-ons and pull-offs. Also, use the exercise in the previous lesson about positioning yourself with chords without actually playing them; they will make you play chords faster.
An exercise I use for barring is to bar the 1st fret. I bar the fret, play every note individually, then play the fret all barred, and then play the 1st fret open for all the strings. I repeat the process until the 12th fret or so, and then I move all the way back. Doing this will help you bar better and will also produce strength in your fingers.
A good exercise I use for picking is called alternate picking. I'll play a piece to warm up, but I will pick alternately. Picking alternately means that you will pick one note upwards and the other downwards. This will build strength in your picking arm, and will also make you a faster picker.
While doing this exercise, the tip of your fingers might start to peel a little and develop calices. You should take a rest, but this is a good thing. The more your fingers peel, the harder the tips of your fingers will get which will assist you in guitar playing. It is always best to warm up before practicing the guitar so doing these exercises will not only build up strength, but they will also get you ready to play!
About the author: David Woodford is a professional writer who specializes in beginners guides for a variety of subjects. He is currently writing this series of guides on learning to play guitar for novices and 'false beginners'. More information can be found on his site at http://www.info4u-services.com/guitar Title: Want to play guitar like the pros? Part 4 - Basic Guitar Playing Techniques
Author: David Woodford
Article: If you really want to learn the guitar, you should know by now that it isn't just strumming and plucking. Guitar is much deeper than those techniques, and it has many techniques besides the two simple ones. I will be explaining the more complex techniques such as: hammer-on, hammer-on pull offs, pull offs, slides, bends, and vibratos.
Let's get started with the hammer-on. The hammer on is alike to what it sounds like, a hammer- on. Basically, you play whatever string you like, but you hammer your finger on to the fret. When you hammer-on, you play two notes. Usually, the 2nd one is played quickly. Hammer-ons are one of the easier guitar techniques.
Now for the pull-offs. Pull-offs are also similar to what they sound like. You play the string AND fret, and then you pull off of it. The pull-off can be pulled off to a fret, or to an open string. For the pull-off to be pulled off to an open string, then you will have no finger to be pulled off to. In other words, you just play the fret, and pull off the string. For example, let's say you were playing the 2nd fret of the 1st string. You would play the 2nd fret, and then just pull off the string not playing anything else. Although pull-offs seem easy, they can get very difficult. A pull-off can be pulled off to a fret. So if someone were to say play the 5th fret and pull off to the 3rd, then that would require playing the fret and pulling off to another fret. For example, you would play the 5th fret, but at the same time you would keep a finger solid on the 3rd fret so you would be able to pull off to the 3rd fret. Think that was hard? Well, then your not in too much luck because pull-offs only get harder. They can also have 2 or more frets to be pulled off too. For example, let's say someone said to pull off from the 5th to the 3rd to the 2nd. That would mean you play the 5th fret, while keeping a finger solidly on the 3rd fret and 2nd fret. You would then pull off of the 5th fret on to the 3rd, and then pull off of the 3rd fret on to the 2nd.
Now for the hammer-on-pull offs. This is basically self explanatory. They are the two techniques put together to form a hammer-on pull-off. Let's say you were told to hammer on the 4th fret and pull off to the third. You would play the note before, then hammer on to the 4th fret, and pull off to the third.
Moving on to bends and slides. They are both very similar, but very different at the same time. A bend requites to play the note, and bend the string upwards or downwards. In most cases, when someone says to bend, then it will be a whole step (2 frets). But, if they say bend UP half step then you would bend the string up so it produces the same sound as the fret above. Bending down will produce the sound of the frets below the note. Slides also involving playing a note, and going higher or lower. To play a slide, you play the original note and then slide to the note that you are supposed to. For example, sliding from the 3rd to the 5th fret would mean playing the 3rd fret, and literally slide your finger from the 3rd fret to the 5th fret so you play ALL of the notes from the 3rd to 5th fret.
Last, but not least are the vibratos. To me, this is fun and easy. All you do is simply play a note, and give it small bends up and down, to "vibrate" the sound. So if you had to do vibrato on the 3rd fret, all you would do is play the 3rd fret and move the fret up and down.
About the author: David Woodford is a professional writer who specializes in beginners guides for a variety of subjects. He is currently writing this series of guides on learning to play guitar for novices and 'false beginners'. A lot of help can be found at his site at at http://www.info4u-services.com/guitar Title: Want to play guitar like the pros? Part 5 - Reading Tablature and Advanced Guitar Techniques
Author: David Woodford
Article: If you're going to play music on the guitar, you're probably going to read tablature at some point in time. Tablature is very easy once you get an understanding. Also, if you stick with guitar, you're going to have to know more techniques than just the basic ones. Here I write on how to read tablature, and some advanced Guitar Techniques.
Tablature is very simple. Usually it will have 6 lines with the word TAB written vertically over on the left. The thing to remember is that official tablature is ALWAYS written so that the string at the top is the 6th, and the string at the bottom is the 1st. There are always numbers within the lines, and those are fret numbers. Usually, most tabs will have some kind of key. They vary form source to source. Usually, h will mean hammer on and p will mean pull off. Books usually use symbols. For example, for a bend they will have the fret and then draw a curved line up to the fret it needs to be bent to. Let's look at a sample tab (http://www.presentersforum.com/tabs.jpg) to get started.
As you can see the numbers indicate the fret. The x's by the chords will indicate that the string is closed. As you can see when the lines curve to two frets, sometimes they have a letter above them. For example at the beginning the 0 and 2 have a H. The H indicates a hammer-on.
Now to move on to some advanced guitar techniques. When reading tabs, you might see a chord that has all the frets the same. This is called a bar. If someone tells you to bar the guitar from the 3rd string and 3rd fret that would mean you would lay your finger flat on the 3rd string from the 3rd fret down. Doing that would result in also hitting the 3rd fret of the 1st and 2nd strings. Beginners will usually have a hard time to bar. A good way to get your bar more clear is to play every note individually before you actually play the bar as a whole. For example, if you were to bar the 3rd fret of down from the 4th string, you would have to play each 3rd fret of each 3rd string individually. By doing this, you can see which notes you are messing up on and how to correct them.
Another technique used in guitar is called tapping. Tapping isn't too advanced, but is used in more advanced music. For tapping all you do is repeatedly tap the fret without actually playing the note. So if you were to tap the 2nd fret of the 1st string, you would just repeatedly tap the fret.
To end it off, I'll finish with harmonics. Harmonics produce a pretty sound, and aren't too hard. They don't work with every single frets, and the most common are 5th, 7th, 10th, and 12th. To do harmonics you have to see the metal piece which separates frets. Then, you put your finger on top of the string directly above the metal. You lay the finger as flat as possible and DO NOT press down on the strings. If all worked well, when you pick the string you should get a harmonic sound.
Reading tablature is a requirement for all guitar players and will help you throughout your guitar career. Learning the advanced techniques will make you a better guitar player and will add more skill to your music. They both are lessons that are vital to playing the guitar.
About the author: David Woodford is a professional writer who specialises in beginners guides for a variety of subjects. He is currently writing this series of guides on learning to play guitar for novices and 'false beginners'. Some great help can be found on his site at: http://www.info4u-services.com/guitar http://www.info4u-services.com/guitar
Title: 4 easy alternate tunings for guitar.
Author: Chris Owen
Article: Learning the guitar can be great fun. Once you know a few chords and can play a few tunes you feel a great sense of satisfaction. You may also wish to experiment with alternate tunings for the guitar - i.e. not the usual EADGBE standard tuning. For those of you who wish to try some of these out, here are some to start you off. Don't be scared of trying these out. Just make sure you have a tuner handy to get you back "home" to the standard tuning.
IMPORTANT: If you need to tune a string down to a note you must tune it down BELOW the note you actually want and then tune UP to the required note - e.g. if you want to tune the E string down to a D, first tune it down to around a C note, then tune it UP to a D. This stops the string becoming slack and going out of tune.
The first one is the "dropped D" tuning DADGBE (low to high) Simply tune the low E string down to a D, using your open D as a guide.
The second one is the "Double dropped D" DADGBD which is the dropped D tuning with the high E string tuned down to a D as well
The third one is "Open G tuning" DGDGBD. This is the Double dropped D tuning with the A string tuned down to a G, using the already open G as a guide. This tuning was made famous by Keith Richards of the Rolling Stones who went 1 step further and took off the low D completely from his guitar, leaving him with only 5 strings! GDGBD.
The last one for now is DADGAD. This is the Double dropped D tuning with the B string tuned down to an A. Use your open A string as a guide.
With these alternate tunings you can create some beautiful sounding chord progressions, plus by using open strings you can make more use of harmonics. The key thing is to experiment. Try using a capo with these tunings or why not play along with a friend? You could both play the same song with one guitar tuned to a standard tuning and one to an alternate tuning. The possibilities are endless, just use your imagination. Most of all, remember this is supposed to be FUN! If you enjoyed learning these tunings, why not search the internet for more alternate ones? There are many more. Thanks for reading, have fun!
Chris.
About the author:
Chris Owen has been playing the guitar since he was 7 years old. If you need to improve your playing then click and visit:
for the only guitar tutorial program he recommends.
Title: The Blues Scale & Cool Stuff You Can Do With It
Author: Duane Shinn
Article: Most of us who took piano lessons as kids are all too familiar with scales, and most of us hated practicing them with a passion. But understanding scales and what they do is critical to the process of improvisation as well as key orientation and just a general understanding of what's happening in the song we are playing.
The word "scale" comes from the Latin word "la scala" which means "the ladder". So a scale is a ladder of notes that starts at the bottom -- called the root note -- and proceeds upwards to the top of the ladder -- called the octave note.
There are several kinds of scales, the most common being the major scale, followed by three different types of minor scales. After that there are several specialty scales, including the blues scale used widely in jazz, R&B, blues, and quite a bit in pop music.
The "blues scale" is really a combination of the major diatonic scale (the "regular" scale we all grew up with) plus three additional notes:
The flatted 3rd; The flatted 5th (or sharp 4th -- same thing); The flatted 7th
As a result the blues scale really contains 11 notes -- the 8 of the normal diatonic scale -- and the 3 "blue notes". These are used in various combinations, as we shall see, to create a "bluesy sound".
The blues started not as a piano style, but as a vocal style, and of course the human voice can sing "in the cracks" between the notes on the keyboard. So when we play blues on the keyboard, we try to imitate the human voice by playing BOTH the 3rd and the flat 3rd -- BOTH the 5th and the flat 5th -- BOTH the 7th and the flat 7th. We would play in the cracks if we could, but we can't, so we do the best we can by combining the intervals to imitate the quarter steps that a human voice can sing. (Certain instruments can do that too -- for example, the trombone. Since it has a slide, it can hit an infinite number of tones between any two keyboard notes.)
So in the key of C, for example, the blues scale would include: C, D, Eb, E, F, Gb, G, A, Bb, B, and the octave C.
In the key of F the blues scale would include: F, G, Ab, A, Bb, Cb, C, D, Eb, E, and the octave F.
In the key of G the blues scale would include: G, A, Bb, B, C, Db, D, E, F, F#, and the octave G.
So in improvising you can craft a melody out of any or all of these notes. Start by creating a motif out of just 3 or 4 notes, then repeat that motif as you change chords.
For example, if you were in the Key of C, you might create a motif such as C, C, G, Bb C and repeat it in various rhythms as you play the C7 chord in your left hand, then again as you move to the F7 chord, and so on.
With practice and experimentation you can play your own variety of the blues as you master the blues scale.
About the author:
A series or free lessons from Duane Shinn on the various aspects of piano chords & the blues is available: "Exciting Piano Chords & Sizzling Chord Progressions!" ">
Guides & Reference
Title: Custom Built Fender Strats - Yes or No? Author: Barry Lewis First, allow me to confess to custom building a strat, and customizing, or "hot-rodding" several myself. I will only do this to improve a guitar's overall performance, either on stage or in the studio, never just for the heck of it or for vanity's sake. I 'd never change a guitar's finish unless the original was too far gone to save. I've invested a ton of money into tools, expensive HVLP spray guns, compressors, and much more, but I'd gladly leave every bit of it alone and just polish a beautiful vintage 1957 strat, completely original, or a '62 Custom Shop. I could sit here and dream 'em up forever...but I try to basically make what's there prettier, and install wiring harnesses that tweak the guitar's performance so that a stage musician doesn't have to keep changing guitars during a set. As for customizing and building custom or re-building vintage guitars: 
Some of my rules and so forth: *Never remove or destroy the vintage finish on a guitar, unless it has been so badly damaged that it cannot be polished to an acceptable look, and maybe not even then.** On a vintage Stratocaster, it is best to leave it alone and clean it up as much as possible, and do only those repairs that can be done without changing the vintage finish. *You can actually lower the guitar's value by refinishing it! Leave the pots and switches, plus the pickups alone as well when they can be saved. If you are going to upgrade, or "hot rod" it, save the original wiring harness, in it's original condition and keep it with all the instument's original parts. It's easier to put it back to it's original vintage condition if you still actually possess it's original parts, and it's much better than later crying like a baby because you did the changes at all or worse, you didn't save the parts! Plus, sometimes you can re-solder with the correct vintage wire and stay correct, using the original harness. It is ALWAYS best to take the instrument to a dealer or shop with a repair person or Luthier qualified to work on a fine vintage guitar. I cannot stress this enough. Just look at the pictures below here, to see just how far down, and how much sheer effort and sweat and frustration you must unleash on a body to rid it of the evil polyurethane finish, in order to refinish in Nitro Cellulose Lacquer. To the wood and back! 
Hard to believe those are the same guitar as pictured just above, huh?! Not easy. That's nothing, really, as far as all important-wise for your guitar goes. You see, if you're determined to dismantle your guitar anyway, take extremely great care with the neck! This is the most important, most expensive, most difficult piece of the guitar, and it doesn't forgive many mistakes. My greatest advice to you when you remove the neck is for you to back the truss rod tension off by turning the adjustment screw counter clockwise one-quarter turn, then take it to a professional! You can do the work on the body yourself then! If you are set on it, and you're going to strip and refinish the guitar, and it's finished in polyurethane, you are in for seven levels of hell if you attempt to strip it off, unless you pay attention to me here, right now! USE KLEEN STRIP AIRCRAFT REMOVER, available at Sherwin Williams and other quality paint and automotive finish stores. It's the only thing that'll strip polyurethane in my unfortunate experience of trying many other strippers and feeling quite defeated and utterly useless, and you'll still have to do about four or five coats and a LOT of elbow grease to get it off with the Aircraft remover! Use a very stiff, strong scraper, 00 - 0000 steel wool, or even a light metal scraper (if you are experienced with stripping and working with wood ONLY!). Then I highly suggest refinishing with Nitro Cellulose Lacquer, because it is the best finish for a guitar. It dries over to touch and finish sanding fast, plus it continues drying and lets the wood breath, for as long as the instrument lasts. The tonal qualities of the guitar improve over time with it, and the color relics and turns nicely vintage in a way no other finish can. Use a high quality thinner, too. NOT the NAPTHA from Home Depot or Lowe's, either, while you're at Sherwin Williams or another quality paint store, buy the high quality NAPTHA, and high quality wood putty that's stainable, too. A nice slow set epoxy wood fill kit is worth it's weight in gold here for any wood repair and filling rout mistakes, chips, etc.. If you want to stain the wood, use aniline dye gel stains. Trans-tints are great, as well, as your experience level and confidence increases. My personal choice is Aniline dye gel from the Clearwater Co. They dilute in water or alcohol and go on with no overlap marks. Use water dilution if you wish to raise the wood grain, and if not, use alcohol. With alcohol, usually I use it when I'm on the final stain coating and aren't sanding it. With water dilution, the grain is raised, and sanding is necessary, but you can also get the stain nice and deep into it. You then allow it to dry, stain again, then again to your specification, then sand the grain flat. Another way to use raising of the grain is to simply wipe down the entire body with a wet cloth, wet with water. When you've done this a couple of times, AVOIDING ANY BINDINGS, sand, wipe again until clean, allow to dry. Then wipe the entire surface with wood putty, or grain filler, using a small, wide blade or spatula and allow it to dry. I usually wait about three or four hours. Then sand flat using a flat block and 400 grit paper, followed by 600 grit, continuing with higher grit, and I use at this point, Micro Mesh, which is cushioned crystal sanding material to 1800 grit. I have many, many more tips, but continuing here would likely keep you reading until the end of October 2010! Some of my custom work is displayed in our Guitars Past page. You can ask me questions any time and I'll do my best to help with your project as far as advice if you ask, using our "Contact Us" page. This is intended to be a great community here at www.lewis-riggscustomguitars.com, and I'm here to help if I can. There are some really great books, tapes and even free How-to's, diagrams and more at Stewart-MacDonald, www.stewart-macdonald.com. Also check out www.21frets.com. The best I've seen for setting up a beautiful Strat to absolute factory specs, such as the bridge intonation, radius,trem and much, much more, is at www.fender.com, and look at the service and resources section of their site. Awsome. Now, if you don't know how to re-fret a guitar neck, go to a professional, like I advised earlier. There are many kits available to condition and level frets, and some are great, but watch out working on a guitar neck! You wouldn't want a first-timer doctor working on your neck or heart, would you?!?! I always say, if it's your Strat, you can do the learning on it and destroy it if you please, and maybe even get it right. Heck, you can even keep re-doing it until it's correct or completely dead! The best is to go to a pro and explain exactly what you want, and the pro will do it. If you want to learn, though, I recommend Stewart-Macdonald's book series "Trade Secrets", they are really fantastic, with step by step instructions on many, many topics, with hundreds of photos showing what they're talking about. The books are soft cover and worth every penny. I custom build, or re-build my Strats, and a couple I just "refreshed" and upgraded, using all Fender parts, except for the custom wiring harness. So it basically boils down to really looking at your Strat and carefully inspecting it's condition, then look it up in "The Official Vintage Guitar Price Guide"-current edition and find it's value.......then asking the question to yourself in your head. Customize, or not customize? Guide 01-2 copyright 2006 Barry Wayne Lewis
Title: The Fender Hwy 1 Stratocaster Electric Guitar Author: Barry Lewis The Fender Hwy 1 Stratocaster, what can I say about this instrument? It is reasonably low cost for a Stratocaster, and aimed at re-creating the vintage feel and sound of the early 1960's.......it is a great guitar, these will be sought after classics in their own time. The reason being: it comes with vintage chrome hardware, which looks and feels pretty cool, plus the satin lacquer finish and solid alder body with maple neck. It has fender's version of a "C" neck, a nice comfortable neck with rolled edges and a satin finish, not thick, sticky gloss polyurethane (it feels smooth). Nice neck radius (curvature of the finger board), which makes bending and solo work a breeze. The nitro cellulose lacquer is so superior to polyurethane, I don't have the time or space to expound upon it's wonders like: tonal enrichment with time and expanding with the wood, and aging with life along with the wood, and so much more. Comparing this to a Gibson SG is like comparing a golf club to a baseball bat or a tire tool. The serious guitar pros state that poly or clear urethane coat seals up the wood of the guitar in plastic, thus constricting any resonance to the confines of that seal or finish. Nitro-cellulose is a natural finish, allowing the wood to breath and contract and expand, also allowing the body to resonate far beyond the finish, thus generating more full body tone from the guitar itself. All of the collector Fenders (or a good portion of them) from the past that are highly sought after with "unreal", beautiful tone are Nitro-Cellulose Lacquer finished guitars. It is coated with a transparent finish, allowing you to see the wood grain through the color. In my opinion this guitar was meant to be modified, the standard pickups are noisy, weak and the middle pickup is not wound reverse, thus no reverse polarity (hum canceling/noise dropout) in the second and fourth switch positions, like most all Stratocasters have. Install a set of Fender Hot Noiseless, or Texas Special pickups in this guitar and you have an American classic, an investment in a future Collector's Piece! You can click here: Fender Hwy 1 Strat , and scroll to the bottom of the page and see a Hwy 1 Strat I upgraded with Mark Knopfler Custom Shop Texas Special Bridge and Middle pickups and Texas Special Neck Pickup, plus added a nice Dark Pearloid Pickguard. 
The Hwy1 Stratocaster is the best bet for your money for buying a new Fender Strat without paying a big $800 - $900 price, these are in the $640 range, and are American Fender Stratocasters. A great deal on an excellent sounding and playing guitar. Another in a long line of American Fender Stratocaster Classics. Guide 001-02 copyright 10/28/05 Barry Wayne Lewis Title: Fender Artist Signature Series Stratocaster - Case in Point: Mark Knopfler Strat Author: Barry Lewis Fender Mark Knopfler Strat: The Fender Artist Signature Strats, in particular here the Fender Artist Signature and Custom Shop Mark Knopfler Stratocasters, allow anyone the opportunity to own the same guitar that Mark Knopfler of Dire Straits owns and plays. The same goes for all the other Artist models, such as the Eric Clapton, Dick Dale or the awsome Robin Trower models. The Mark Knopfler Strat comes with a lite ash body finished in nitro cellulose lacquer in Hot Rod Red, with single ply lite mint pickguard and control knobs. The hardware is Fender Vintage in Chrome. This Strat comes with a set of Fender Custom Shop Mark Knopfler Texas Special pickups, wired with 250K POTS with an Orange Drop Tone Capacitor and 5 way switch. It also has vintage cloth wire insulation from the pickups. It's got a really great, growling sound and singing as well. Nice range all around. The Knopfler Strat is a real blast to play, and will make you look good doing it, too. A really nice customization of the Mark Knopfler Strat pictured and linked here in this guide is a Black, slightly heavier Alder body, dressed in Gold Vintage hardware in place of the chrome, but wired to the Fender specs, and with the spectacular neck and Mark Knopfler Texas Specials. This one has all the sound it was born with, plus maybe a bit more tone. Then there's that look... 
You can click on Guitars Past link in the left navigation for a 2005 Fender Mark Knopfler Strat I built custom, for photos and information on the custom Knopfler Strat, you will need to scroll down the page "Guitars Past" to see the Knopfler Strat in Black with Abalone Swirl pickguard and Gold hardware. It's a really nice piece. Light weight, light easy fretboard action on a neck that's a work of art, and great tonal range, all wrapped in a beautiful package made this one a winner all around. It's well worth checking out. 
Guide ID: 001-03 copyright 02/26/06 Barry Wayne Lewis
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